Why a BBQ restaurant can be evaluated by its brisket.

Barbecue fans across the United States love to argue about their preferred regional styles, but aside from specialty dishes and sauces, how can one determine if a barbecue restaurant is truly excellent? To find out, we spoke with barbecue expert Robbie Shoults, celebrity chef and third-generation owner of Bear Creek Smokehouse, who also owns High Horse 1898 and the historic Marshall Mercantile building.

According to Shoults, one particular dish can reveal a lot about a restaurant’s skill. “I believe brisket is the holy grail of barbecue; if they can smoke brisket properly, then everything else about the restaurant is likely to be on point,” he said. Brisket is sourced from the front part of the cow, situated between the shanks and chuck cut. It can be bought as a whole beef brisket or split into individual sections: the first cut (flat cut) and the second cut (deckle).

Brisket is notoriously challenging, both in texture and preparation, meaning there are many ways it can go wrong. However, Shoults asserts that if you find a restaurant that smokes brisket well, it should be evident when you see it — look for a rich, dark bark on the surface and a pink ring surrounding the meat just beneath the crust.

Your palate can also indicate whether a BBQ place knows how to prepare brisket. Robbie Shoults says a perfectly smoked brisket is filled with flavor and has a moist, tender texture. But if you’d prefer to avoid paying just to figure out if a restaurant meets your standards, Shoults has some tips for deciding if it’s worth stepping in. A quick look at the exterior can offer clues: “From the outside, does the joint look like it’s ablaze?” Shoults asks. “A truly great barbecue restaurant will likely have smoke billowing out from somewhere!”

The absence of smoke can indicate that the food lacks the smoky flavor you desire. “Another thing to observe from the outside is whether the parking lot is full,” Shoults adds. If it’s not a grand opening everyone has been waiting for, a full parking lot at an established restaurant can signal that they’re serving quality meals. For BBQ trucks or cozy spots without parking, look for long queues. Meanwhile, if you’re trying to assess a barbecue restaurant from a distance, Shoults recommends checking online reviews and ratings.

Beyond Robbie Shoults’ valuable insights, there are additional methods to determine if a barbecue restaurant will provide a great smoked meat experience. If you’re browsing online for reviews, take a moment to check their menu as well. While it’s important to see what they offer, you can gather essential information about the expected quality.

Check if the meats and other ingredients are locally sourced and whether their menu is primarily focused on barbecue. If the kitchen is preoccupied with an extensive array of other dishes, the BBQ — which needs significant time and attention — might be compromised. Choosing a restaurant that mainly focuses on perfecting smoked meats is likely to yield better results.

If you’re visiting or have moved to a new area, take Anthony Bourdain’s advice on finding good restaurants and ask the locals. Whether you strike up a conversation with a bartender for recommendations, flip through magazines for insights from local food enthusiasts, or search social media for buzz, fellow diners can lead you to popular barbecue joints with smoke rising from the roof and brisket featuring the best dark bark.